{"id":5865,"date":"2026-07-31T06:36:08","date_gmt":"2026-07-31T06:36:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/?p=5865"},"modified":"2026-08-03T09:07:08","modified_gmt":"2026-08-03T09:07:08","slug":"how-to-grade-pokemon-cards","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/how-to-grade-pokemon-cards\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Grade Pok\u00e9mon Cards: Costs, Companies, and Step-by-Step Submission"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Maybe you rediscovered your childhood binder, or you pulled something stunning out of a fresh booster pack. Either way, you’re probably asking the same two questions: is this card worth grading, and how do you get it done without damaging it along the way?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Grading a Pok\u00e9mon card means having a professional company authenticate it, score its condition, and seal it in a protective case. This guide covers the whole process \u2014 how grading works, how to check your cards at home for free, what it costs, which company to pick, and how to submit step by step. At the end, you’ll also find out where collectors go to source grading-worthy Japanese cards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What Pok\u00e9mon Card Grading Is and How It Works<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Before you spend money on submission fees, it’s worth understanding exactly what you’re paying for.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What You Get: Authentication, a 1\u201310 Grade, and a Protective Slab<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Grading is a three-stage service: authentication, condition scoring, and encapsulation<\/strong>. Graders first verify your card is genuine and check for signs of tampering, like trimming or recoloring. Authentic cards then get a condition grade on a 1\u201310 scale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finally, the company seals the card in a tamper-evident plastic case, commonly called a slab. The label displays the grade and a unique certification number, so anyone can look up the cert online later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That third-party seal of approval is the whole point. A strong grade can raise the value of a rare or vintage card, because buyers don’t have to take your word for the condition or authenticity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Four Criteria Graders Check: Centering, Corners, Edges, and Surface<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Every major grading company evaluates cards on the same four criteria<\/strong>: centering, corners, edges, and surface.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Centering is about how evenly the borders frame the artwork. Corners get checked for wear, bends, and white spots where the corner has worn down to the cardstock underneath. Edges are inspected for whitening, nicks, and rough cuts. Surface covers everything on the front and back of the card: scratches, print lines, creases, dents, and lost gloss.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These four criteria decide your grade, which makes them the perfect checklist for your own inspection. You’ll run through the same four checkpoints when you pre-grade your cards at home in the next section.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How the 1\u201310 Pok\u00e9mon Card Grading Scale Works<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Grades run from 1 (Poor) to 10 (Gem Mint), and the top grade is far stricter than most first-time submitters expect. A PSA Gem Mint 10 has to be virtually perfect, with centering no worse than about 55\/45 on the front and 75\/25 on the back. A PSA 9 (Mint) allows one minor flaw, with front centering of 60\/40 or better and 90\/10 or better on the back.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Grade<\/strong><\/td>PSA label<\/strong><\/td>What it means<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
10<\/td>Gem Mint<\/td>Virtually perfect; sharp corners, full gloss, tight centering<\/td><\/tr>
9<\/td>Mint<\/td>Superb condition with one minor flaw<\/td><\/tr>
8<\/td>Near Mint\u2013Mint<\/td>Looks Mint at first glance; slight fraying or off-white borders<\/td><\/tr>
7<\/td>Near Mint<\/td>Slight surface wear visible on close inspection<\/td><\/tr>
5\u20136<\/td>Excellent<\/td>Visible wear, minor scratches, some loss of gloss<\/td><\/tr>
1\u20134<\/td>Poor to Very Good<\/td>Rounding, creases, staining, or heavy wear<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The scale varies slightly by company. BGS grades in 0.5 increments and reserves a black-label Pristine 10<\/strong> for flawless cards, and CGC offers a Pristine 10 tier above its Gem Mint 10.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How to Grade Pok\u00e9mon Cards at Home for Free<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

You can estimate a card’s grade yourself before paying anyone, and it costs nothing but time. A careful pre-grade means you only submit the cards with a real shot at a high grade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Set Up a Clean Workspace and Basic Tools<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Work on a clean, dust-free surface \u2014 ideally a soft mat<\/strong> that won’t scratch your cards. Keep drinks, food, and anything that can spill well away from the table.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You need surprisingly little gear: penny sleeves, semi-rigid card savers, a magnifying glass, a millimeter ruler or digital caliper, and one bright, direct light source. Disposable gloves keep fingerprints off glossy surfaces while you handle your best cards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Measure Centering with Border Ratios<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Centering is the easiest criterion to measure objectively, and it’s often what separates a 10 from a 9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
  1. Measure the width of the left and right borders around the artwork.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. Divide the left border by the total of both, then multiply by 100. Borders of 3.1 mm and 2.7 mm, for example, give you 53\/47 centering.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  3. Repeat for the top and bottom borders, then check the back of the card.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

    Compare your results against the official thresholds: a PSA 10 needs centering within roughly 55\/45 on the front and 75\/25 on the back<\/strong>, while a PSA 9 allows 60\/40 front and 90\/10 back.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    If the card is obviously off-center to the naked eye, a Gem Mint grade isn’t happening. Save the careful measuring for cards that look borderline.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Inspect Corners, Edges, and Surface Under Bright Light<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    Graders work under strong, direct light, and so should you. Sit in a dim room with a single bright light source<\/strong>, and tilt the card so reflections reveal flaws you’d otherwise miss.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Check each corner with a magnifier for uneven rounding, white dots, and lifting. Scan the edges for whitening and rough cuts \u2014 the blue backs of Pok\u00e9mon cards chip easily, so white flecks show up there first. On the surface, look for scratches, print lines, dents, and creases as you angle the card against the light. A UV flashlight makes scratches and alterations easier to spot, if you have one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Run through this checklist before you call a card submission-ready:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u2610 Corners: all four evenly rounded, no white dots
    \u2610 Corners: no bends or lifting
    \u2610 Edges: no whitening on front or back
    \u2610 Edges: no nicks or rough cuts
    \u2610 Surface: no scratches visible under angled light
    \u2610 Surface: no print lines, dents, or creases
    \u2610 Centering: front within 55\/45
    \u2610 Centering: back within 75\/25<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Estimate Your Card’s Likely Grade Before Submitting<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    When you add it all up, be conservative. The final grade tends to follow the worst of the four criteria<\/strong> rather than the average, so a card with perfect corners but a scratched holo still lands at a 9 or below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Then cross-check your estimate against the market. Look up sold listings on eBay, compare the photos with your copy, and see what grades similar cards pulled. PSA also publishes a price guide for graded cards, which shows you what each grade is actually worth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    One last reality check: cards that look flawless to an untrained eye often come back a grade lower than expected. Planning around a slightly lower grade keeps your expectations \u2014 and your budget \u2014 realistic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    How Much It Costs to Grade Pok\u00e9mon Cards<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Grading fees vary more than most beginners expect, from under $20 to several hundred dollars per card.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Grading Fees and Turnaround Times by Company<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    Every company prices its services in tiers: the less you pay, the longer you wait. Here are the published rates as of July 2026.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Company<\/strong><\/td>Entry price per card<\/strong><\/td>Fastest tier<\/strong><\/td>Turnaround range<\/strong><\/td>Notes<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
    PSA<\/td>$79.99 (Regular)<\/td>$599 (Walk-Through)<\/td>7\u201350 business days<\/td>Lower-priced Value tiers temporarily paused<\/td><\/tr>
    BGS<\/td>$14.95 (Base)<\/td>$124.95 (Priority)<\/td>5\u201375+ business days<\/td>Subgrades add $3 on Base tier<\/td><\/tr>
    CGC<\/td>$17 (Bulk)<\/td>$300 (WalkThrough)<\/td>2\u2013150 days<\/td>Members save 10%\u201320%<\/td><\/tr>
    TAG<\/td>Limited availability<\/td>Priority only<\/td>Varies<\/td>Regular tiers currently paused<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    PSA’s Regular tier runs $79.99 per card with an estimated turnaround of 40 to 50 business days, and the company has temporarily paused its cheaper Value services because of demand. BGS starts at $14.95 per card on its slowest Base tier, and CGC’s Bulk tier is $17 per card if you can wait around 150 days.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Treat every turnaround figure as an estimate. The companies say outright that processing times aren’t guaranteed and shift with submission volume.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Declared Value and Other Costs to Expect<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    When you submit, you state a declared value<\/strong> for each card: your estimate of what it’ll be worth once it’s graded. That number determines your service tier and how much insurance coverage the card carries while it’s in the company’s hands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    So what about a $1,000 card? PSA’s Regular tier at $79.99 covers it, since that tier goes up to a declared value of $1,500. You only pay for a higher tier when your card’s value passes the tier ceiling, or when you want faster turnaround.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Budget for logistics, too. Shipping both ways adds up, though drop-off options simplify it \u2014 GameStop, for example, charges a flat $9.99 shipping fee per order on top of the grading fee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Is Grading Pok\u00e9mon Cards Worth It? How to Decide<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    Grading is worth it when the numbers work in your favor. Compare what the card would sell for graded against everything you spend getting there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n

    The break-even test: <\/strong>
    Expected graded sale price \u2212 (grading fee + shipping + selling fees) > current raw card value. If that number comes out ahead, grading makes financial sense. Run your self-check first so your expected grade is realistic. <\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

    Cheap cards usually fail this test. When a card is worth less raw than the grading fee itself, the math almost never works out, which is why a lot of collectors set a floor of $20 to $50 in raw value before submitting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Money isn’t the only reason to grade, though. A slab protects a card for decades, proves it’s authentic, and preserves a childhood favorite you never plan to sell. And at the very top of the market, condition is everything: when Logan Paul’s Pikachu Illustrator sold at Goldin Auctions in February 2026 for $16.49 million \u2014 the most expensive trading card ever sold at auction \u2014 a big part of what put it out of reach was that it’s the only copy in the world graded PSA 10.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Which Pok\u00e9mon Card Grading Company Should You Choose?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    There’s no single right answer. Each company suits a different priority: resale value, detailed feedback, low cost, or transparency.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    PSA: The Market Standard with the Strongest Resale Value<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    PSA calls itself the largest and most respected third-party authentication and grading company in the world, and its slabs are the ones you’ll see most often in the hobby. Cards come back in a sonically sealed, tamper-evident case<\/strong> with the grade and cert number on the label.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Collectors who plan to sell tend to favor PSA because its grades are widely recognized and easy to price against published sales data. If easy resale matters more to you than speed or cost, PSA is the default starting point.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    BGS: Subgrades and the Coveted Black Label 10<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    BGS stands out for telling you why<\/em> your card got the grade it got. Every graded card can carry subgrades<\/strong> for centering, corners, edges, and surface, printed right on the label.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The scale runs from 1 to 10 in 0.5 increments, topped by the Black Label Pristine 10<\/strong>. That designation demands near perfection, including 50\/50 centering on the front, which makes it one of the hardest grades in the hobby to earn. Choose BGS when you want detailed feedback, or a shot at that black label.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    CGC: Competitive Pricing and a Pristine 10 Tier<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    CGC competes hard on price. Its Bulk tier starts at $17 per card, and members save 10% to 20% on grading fees depending on membership level.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    CGC’s scale includes both a Gem Mint 10 and a Pristine 10<\/strong> above it, giving flawless cards an extra tier to chase. It’s a good fit if you’re grading a large stack of cards at once, or making a budget-conscious first submission.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    TAG: Computer Vision Grading with Digital Reports<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    TAG takes a technology-first approach, using its patented Photometric Stereoscopic Imaging to measure cards instead of relying only on human judgment. Alongside the standard 1\u201310 grade, each card gets a precise 1,000-point TAG Score<\/strong> and a Digital Image & Grading Report that maps every detected defect and opens from a QR code on the slab. TAG also inscribes the grade directly into the case instead of using a paper label, and the acrylic blocks about 99% of UV light.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    One caveat: TAG has paused its regular tiers, and only limited priority grading is available right now. Check the official site before you plan a submission.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    How to Submit Your Pok\u00e9mon Cards for Grading Step by Step<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Once you’ve picked your cards and your company, the submission itself is straightforward: prep your cards, create the order online, ship or drop them off, then track the order until your slabs come back.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Step 1: Prepare Your Cards in Penny Sleeves and Card Savers<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    Handle your cards as little as possible from here on. Wipe dust off the surface gently with a microfiber cloth<\/strong>, and keep bare fingers off the card face.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The standard submission format is a penny sleeve inside a semi-rigid card saver. GameStop’s PSA drop-off service, for instance, requires every card to arrive in penny sleeves and card savers, and most grading companies would rather you skip toploaders, which are harder to open safely.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Keep your cards in the same order as your submission form. A mismatched order can cause processing delays or extra handling fees, and it’s an easy mistake to avoid.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Step 2: Create Your Submission Online<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

    Every major company uses a similar online flow:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      \n
    1. Create an account on the grading company’s official site.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    2. Fill out the submission form with each card’s name, set, year, and card number.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    3. Enter a declared value for each card and pick your service tier.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    4. Print the submission packet and set it aside to ship with your cards.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

      Take your time on the form. The details you enter become the label on your slab, so a typo here follows your card around forever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Step 3: Pack and Ship Your Cards Safely<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

      Your cards need to survive the trip, so pack them the way experienced submitters do:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        \n
      1. Stack your card savers and sandwich the stack between two pieces of rigid cardboard.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      2. Secure the bundle with rubber bands and wrap it in bubble wrap.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      3. Put the bundle in a sturdy box and fill the empty space with padding so nothing shifts.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      4. Add your printed submission forms, then seal and label the box.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

        Ship with tracking at a minimum. For expensive cards, use insured shipping with signature confirmation \u2014 standard shipping leaves you almost no recourse if a package disappears.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        And before you hand the box over, re-read your company’s shipping instructions. Some require an external barcode label<\/strong> on the package, and forgetting it can slow your order down. Once the box is on its way, you can follow each stage of grading in your account until the slabs ship back to you.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Or Submit in Person at GameStop or a Local Card Shop<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

        If shipping valuable cards yourself feels risky, hand them over in person instead. Participating GameStop stores accept drop-offs for PSA grading at $79.99 per card<\/strong> plus a flat $9.99 shipping fee per order. That covers cards with a declared value up to $1,500, with an estimated turnaround of 40 to 50 business days.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        The GameStop route is friendly to first-timers: no submission form, no card minimum, no subscription. You track progress under My Orders in your GameStop account, and once grading is done you can pick up your slabs, sell them, or trade them in on the spot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Plenty of local card shops offer submission services too, and the staff can help you identify your cards correctly on the form. That guidance alone can make a shop worth visiting for your first submission.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Where to Find Grading-Worthy Pok\u00e9mon Cards from Japan<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
        \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

        High grades start with high-quality raw cards, and a lot of collectors look to Japan to find them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Why Collectors Grade Japanese Pok\u00e9mon Cards<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

        Collectors tend to praise Japanese cards for their consistent print and cut quality. A cleaner card straight out of the pack is a better starting point for a high grade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Availability is the other draw. Japan-first and Japan-exclusive expansions and promos barely circulate in Western markets, so they pull attention from collectors looking beyond the standard English sets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        The Japanese secondhand market is the third piece. Marketplaces like Mercari and Suruga-ya are packed with clean singles and sealed product<\/strong>, which makes them a common hunting ground for grading candidates.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        How Neokyo Makes Buying Pok\u00e9mon Cards from Japan Easy<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

        Most Japanese marketplaces don’t ship overseas, which is where Neokyo comes in. Neokyo is a Japan-based proxy shopping service<\/strong>: you find the card, Neokyo buys it for you from marketplaces like Mercari, Rakuten, and Suruga-ya, and support is in English the whole way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        The fee structure is simple: \u00a5350 per item (roughly $2.50) plus packaging fees. Every purchase includes 45 days of free storage, so you can collect several cards and combine them into one international shipment to save on shipping.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        Here’s how the process works from search to submission:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

          \n
        1. Find your card on a Japanese marketplace through Neokyo.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        2. Make a buy request and confirm your order.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        3. Neokyo buys the item and stores it in its warehouse.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        4. Consolidate your purchases into one package and ship it home.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        5. Run your self-check, then submit the best candidates for grading.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

          Neokyo’s Pok\u00e9mon TCG page organizes cards by Japanese expansion and includes a PSA 10 category, plus a guide to buying trading cards safely and spotting counterfeits. If you’re hunting for your next grading submission, start there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

          Browse Japanese Pok\u00e9mon cards on Neokyo<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

          Start Grading Your Pok\u00e9mon Cards with Confidence<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
          \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

          Grading a Pok\u00e9mon card is a process you can master: check your card against the four criteria at home, run the break-even math, pick the company that fits your goal, and pack carefully. Every step in this guide protects the same two things: your card and your budget.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

          If this is your first submission, start with a few inexpensive cards. A low-stakes trial run teaches you more about grading than any article can, and it sharpens your eye for the cards that actually matter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

          And when you’re ready to find your next grading candidate, Japan’s marketplaces are full of them. Neokyo puts Mercari, Rakuten, and Suruga-ya within reach, from your first buy request to a consolidated package at your door.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

          Find grading-worthy Pok\u00e9mon cards from Japan with Neokyo<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

          Maybe you rediscovered your childhood binder, or you pulled something stunning out of a fresh booster pack. Either way, you’re probably asking the same two questions: is this card worth grading, and how do...<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":12,"featured_media":5866,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false},"categories":[816],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5865"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/12"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5865"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5865\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6080,"href":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5865\/revisions\/6080"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/5866"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5865"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5865"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/neokyo.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5865"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}